IN VOGUE

PARTICIPANTS

Jolanta Rimkutė & Ieva Ševiakovaitė (guests), Lithuania

Eugene Chokhloff & Julia Bunakova, Russia
(“Bunakova & Hokhloff Studio”)

Larisa Kuchalskienė, Lithuania, "Cold Summer of 2000"

Marina Iskandarova, Kazakhstan, "Metamorphosis"
(Fashion Salon “Andree”)

Sotera Norvilaite,
Hungary, "Last Spring of this Millenium" (Fashion House “Kalaka”)

Julian Fedo,
Lithuania, "Mirage of Frescos" (G.Fledžinskienė`s Higher Art School)

Vita Černiauskaitė & Jurga Kasperavičiūtė,
Lithuania, "Night Fishing" (Vilnius Art Academy)

Natalija Natkevičiūtė & Vaida Radvilaitė,
Lithuania, "Fragile Touch"

Elena Starceva,
Russia, "Without Title"

Olga Rink,
Lithuania, "Coans"

Ekaterina Kostrikova,
Russia, "Glitter"

Rita Plioplienė,
Lithuania, "On the Border" (Salon “Kristijonas and Karolina”)

Neolina Matkerimova
Russia, "Persian Lilac"

Olga Brovkina,
Russia, "Feeling"

Liubovė Čaplikienė,
Lithuania, "Storm"

Dmitryi Butyrskyi,
Russia, "Couturiosy"

Greta Dargevičiūtė & Alena Makarova,
Russia, "Harmony of Contradictions"

Indrė Pavilonytė,
Lithuania, "Sarasvati"

Marje Mottus,
Estonia, "Look`99 "

Rasa Urbonaitė,
Lithuania, "Desire and Play "

Julija Potupa,
Russia, "Pret-a-potu-porte"

Viktor Anisimov,
Ukraine

Jolanta Vazalinskienė,
Lithuania, "Summer Rain"

Elena Badmaeva,
Russia, "A Bit of Sun in Cold Water"

Issey Miyake – Fashion House collection "Pleats Please" Autumn-Winter 1999-2000, France

Rochas – Fashion House collection Autumn-Winter 1999-2000, France

Lecoanet & Hemant – Fashion House collection of Haute Couture Springs-Summer 1999, France.

Back to NetCast project

International Fashion Festival “IN VOGUE Vilnius`99”

GUESTS
ISSEY MIYAKE
Pret-a-Porter

CREATIVE BIOGRAPHY:
Issey Miyake is an outstanding creator and personality from Japan.
He spent his childhood and youth in Hiroshima, the place, which marked him physically and mentally for life. The bomb hit when he was at school and he ran home to find his mother injured. It took a long time to liberate himself of this, but the links with his native town and culture stayed firm even after he became a prominent designer on the world’s scale.
One of the first steps towards his outstanding carrier was the creation of a small collection of experimental knitwear at the Toray Fiber Company in 1970. Maimé Arnodin, the creator of the concept of a bureau de style, noticed it and was impressed by the young Issey as well as by his work of modern knits, small and close fitting, worn with stockings and short skirts – it was already a style. She encouraged him to show in Paris, which he did in 1973, making the cover of Elle magazine the same year.
According to Maimé Arnodin, Issey Miyake has created a fashion style, which is completely different. He is the only one who has thought up clothing that you can roll up and throw in a suitcase and arrive, impeccable, at your destination. Another of Issey Miyake`s many talents is his capacity to invent new fabrics: the idea of cutting flat and pleating afterwards are two of his strongest beliefs – in recycling and human intervention – find innovative interpretation when silver, gold, and copper foil are heat pressed onto already-existing garments. Most of his fabrics cannot be copied. As Maimé Arnodin claims, he is evolving towards products that are more permanent than pure fashion, more towards true creation, closer to art than to fashion. In his clothing there is nothing unnecessary. For Issey does not hesitate to delve into the past, perpetuating and modernizing ancient techniques, insuring them the place in the future.
Issey Miyake is very Japanese – he loves Japan and enjoys sharing it with others. At the same time what he really likes is travelling to hot countries, such as Greece and Africa. He is very gourmand and sensitive to cuisine. One of Issey`s other passions, dance, has greatly influenced his work, and brought him to new levels of creativity, such as collaboration with William Forsythe in 1991 for the production “The Loss of Small Detail”. Combining freedom of movement and elegance of line, Issey Miyake created his first Pleats Please collection. The clothes not only transformed the world of dance, but immediately appealed to a larger audience and took the world by storm with the launching of the first Pleats Please boutique in Paris in 1993. In the beginning the idea was indeed for small, inexpensive pieces of clothing that one could buy at the corner store as easily as a baguette (“Pleats, Please, Madame”), but the concept has taken on so well that over 900 000 pieces have been sold in just five years. Pleats Please fit both young and old, student and professional, couture and casual fans, effortlessly crossing the borders of language, taste and age.

ISSEY MIYAKE
Pret-a-Porter
Autumn-Winter 1999-2000
Pleats Please

Pleats Please collection is nomadic clothing carrying with it an aura of eternity. The ultimate travel wardrobe, the Pleats Please collection is an encounter between poetry and practicality.
The concept is unbeatable: a line of simple pieces is first cut out of polyester jersey, then permanently pleated. The collection is made of archetypal shapes, from dresses to coats, cardigans, T-shirts, pants, skirts and skirts, for a total of 14 variations that can be worn separately or layered according to season and style. Pleats Please is both classic and fantastic, with a line of six colors that form the foundation - ecru, beige, grey, anthracite, navy and black – plus new, more experimental colors and prints each season, which range from color blocking to tweed trompe l`oeil to folk-art painting. Pleats Please is feather-light designs. The smooth lines of the clothing are impossible to wrinkle: hand or machine washable, they drip dry overnight and are impeccably prepared for the next rendez-vous.
This Pleats Please autumn-winter collection of Issey Miyake interprets the beauty, traditions, handicrafts and diversity of multicolored fabrics of Africa – a continent, which reminds a mosaic of ethnical groups. One of the African attributes used in the collection is the Flag of the Asafo tribe with its different motives. “Tribal” weave is inspired by different motives of Asafo national costume and made of hand-fixed beads and checkerboard motives pressed on a coarse flax-garment. It is from Africa Issey Miyake borrows also an innovatory way of painting fabrics with mud: the result is Bambara – mud picture on a garment. Inspired by this exclusive method, the designer creates clothing where the main motive is different combinations of mosaics – their Graphic montage. One of the main features of African clothing is big pieces of garments patched together from small pieces of cotton-fabric what makes Checked patterns. Issey Miyake recreated this material adjusting a sewing to mud-painted fabrics or combining it with other motives. Another African element of the collection – Bias checked shawls, which are worn by women and men from Masai-Mara tribe tied up on the shoulders. Issey Miyake interprets also the motive of Elephant pattern, which is important in African clothing. Colors of claret, unbleached linen, blue and gray dominate the theme of Bark patterns. Different body technologies like scarification, ear-piercing, tattoos and body paintings are used in Africa for decorative and symbolic purposes. Issey Miyake interprets these technologies using them on pleated materials, which makes an impression of Embossed weave. One more creative discovery of the designer – a Double faced fabric, where paintings are pressed on both sides of a pleated garment, which makes the colors change and twinkle. Decorative elements of the collection – Fringes – borrowed from African ceremonial clothing.
Pleats Please is a collection of clothes swelled by the wind, swirling gently: whoever slips their arms into these clothes and pulls them over their body feels the soft caress of the parallel pleats on their skin, and sees their body take on magnificent outlines.